Drilled and Slotted Rotors for CHEAP

When it comes to brakes... I absolutely recommend doing the brake pads first.  Once you have upgraded your pads, the next step is to throw on some trick rotors so your brakes look as cool as they feel.  There are all kinds of aftermarket types.  There are drilled, slotted, dimpled, and recently J hook and "blade" slots.  These all handle the gasses created by the brakes and dirt created by the pads in different ways. 

What I would suggest is this... For stock or basic street pads, go with a blank rotor or one that is simply slotted (or slots and dimples if it's EBC).  The reason I say this is because it is unnecessary to save weight by running drilled rotors and the cooling properties of the holes are unnecessary on the street.  There are a ton of other things that go into that suggestion such as the way drilled brakes tend to crack under repeated heavy braking and that it removes more of the braking surface for the pads to contact.  All kinds of things.  Just take my word for it, the slotted or blanks are the ticket.  The advantage of slots over blanks is you experience more even pad wear and slightly better wet weather breaking because the slots carry the dirt and water away from the braking surface.

That being said, here is a pic of my new rotors:

You may be asking why I have drilled and slotted rotors after that rant on not getting them.  Well, it's because I got these babies for $30.  That's right, that's for the PAIR!  Once again, I went with what was available for crazy cheap.  A buddy of mine picked these up for his EK (civic hatch like mine).  He didn't want to mess with getting dirty and removing those two stupid screws in the middle of the rotor.  You can see them in this pick at the top and bottom of the center section of the rotor.

 WARNING!  If you try to swap out your honda rotors without this cool tool... you WILL strip those dumb little rotor screws.  You put the bit in the screw and hit the other end with the hammer.  The tool does the rest.  This little baby cost as much as the rotors, but the job could not have been done without it.  I picked this one up at NAPA and it is well built.  This thing should last me 25 years.  SO, if you total the tool and the rotors, this job cost me about 65 bucks.  Not bad for a brand new set of rotors.

If you are not so fortunate to have a friend like mine trying to get rid of some parts, check Craigslist, eBay, and the usual forums for parts.  I was able to find no name rotors like mine for as cheap as 90 bucks for the pair.  If you want a quality set of blanks from a great company like Brembo, you can pick them up for $130 for the pair.  The slotted and dimpled EBC rotors usually go for about $150 for the pair.  Either one will be outstanding, but again, if you like the "sport look" like I do, go with the slots.

Quick how to replace your rotors link right HERE

It's really easy to do the rotors if you have already mastered the brake pad replacement, there is literally just two more steps!  Take off those dumb screws (can you tell they annoy me) and pull off rotors, put new ones one, put dumb screws in, tighten, throw the caliper back on, and DONE!

Let me show you a couple other pics of the new brake set up:

 You can see my Megan Racing springs in this one.  That is going to be the subject of a post coming to you soon!

That's a wrap for my brakes.  Hopefully someday I can upgrade those rear drums and get some stainless steel braided brake lines.  Until then, I'm pretty content with the improvement I've seen from the pads and rotors.  It would also be nice if I had some sweet wheels to show off the brakes behind them!  Stay tuned!